Thursday, July 24, 2014

Been Awhile But I'm Still Alive

After that last post I'm not really sure what happened. I know that a bunch of mosquitoes came out, the temps got really warm and I went back to work with authority.  It's been a busy summer indeed for me.  I decided when the heat came on that perhaps training was a smarter way to spend my time. For a person with the extra sweaty hands like me, climbing hard problems is impossible once the temperatures get past 75 degrees. On the upside I get plenty of aerobic type excersise at work. What I do involves a lot of running around up and down stairs, then up and down ladders. Basically in a state of constant movement. Everyday I get out of work I go home and train for about 2 hours. Next thing I know it's 9 pm and I haven't ran errands, done paperwork, showered or cooked dinner yet. This is my life everyday of the week until Friday. Friday, I get off work and go straight into the woods. And that's where I stay until late Sunday. Then the process repeats.  It's a hard busy life. But I love it.
     I wish I could climb for a living and dedicate every ounce of my life to it. Unfortuntely I gotta earn my way sometimes and for me that time is summer. Which is perfect because it is just too damn hot anyways.
     There is just too much info to discuss for now in this blog post. This is mainly to motivate everyone with some more climbing video action. It's been a while but here's a couple to keep some fresh psyche through the summer.
     I'll be doing a more in depth blog post soon about my recent solo exploits into the Desolation Wilderness. Til then, keep your psych through the heat.

Back Home: Kirkwood from Jesse Bonin on Vimeo.

Monday, May 5, 2014

8 Ways to Avoid Injury

   There's nothing worse for a boulderer than getting hurt. Sure, our feelings get constantly hurt in this sport. Usually it's the frustration of falling on that last move for the 100th try,  or when a freak rainstorm comes in on the big send day, or when some gym rat tells you that the problem you worked on for the last two seasons is actually as easy as tying your shoes. These emotional pains can be brushed off by climbers because let's face it, we're fucking tough! On the daily, we deal with razor blade crimpers on wet skin, being 20 feet over talus on fuzzy lichened holds, and countless other mental battles that are handled on a regular climbing day. Cool, we're covered....but what about those other hurts: the physical ones that keep us on the couch instead of at the rocks. As boulderers, we brutalize the shit out of bodies. We crank ourselves up overhangs by the tips of our fingers and the points of our toes. Once in a while, you're gonna get messed up. A good question is how do I get these injuries to piss off. Well, once you're injured, time and rehab can be your assets in the healing process. But, the best thing you can do is to try to avoid getting to that point.  I'm talking about preventative maintenance.
     I've been exclusively bouldering for 15 years. Especially in the first 6 years, I learned a lot about injuries. When it came to getting hurt, I was an expert. In those first years, I injured almost every finger, some of them twice. I've had torn ligaments in both knees, compound dislocation in my right ankle, sprains on the left ankle, elbow tendinitis, bicep tendinitis, pulled hamstring, pinched nerves, rotator cuff injuries, strained abs, bruised instep, tweaked wrists, and corneal abrasion ( see One Eye Willie at the Beavers). In the beginning I was quite the case study. I loved climbing so much that I just could not stop, and therefore could not stop getting hurt. After the first 6 years ( and I don't know why it took so long) I decided that I did not like being injured. It sucks. You wanna climb and you can't. I realized that I was going to find the common denominator of my injuries and use it as a blueprint to avoid them. So over the next few season I came up with some tips to decrease the likelihood of having to get benched. Again, these help to keep you from getting injured but know that even though these tips will help, anything can happen at anytime. From my experience though, here are 8 tips to help keep the odds on your side while climbing.

#1. CRASH PADS:    Ok, I know what you're thinking, "way to go Captain Obvious, crash pads huh? no shit sherlock". Well here's why I mention it.  Every boulderer I see does have a crash pad yes. Not every climber uses it properly or even uses it. Just to clarify, a pad is not a fashion requirement of bouldering. If you don't put it under you when you climb, then it's a total waste of energy carrying that awkward thing up to the crag. When you put your crash pad under you make sure that you will land in the center of the pad, getting a spotter to assist you is very helpful. Make sure there's no seams in the pad. This is important. All of my ankle injuries were from gaps in the pads rolling my ankles. Keep your legs in tact and use those crash pads. There are many to choose from. Here's my favorite one.
many pads out there, this is the one I rock


#2. DRINK WATER:    Pretty basic but very overlooked. Your tendons, hell damn near the whole body is made of mostly water. Every time I injured a finger, I drank no water that day. Every time I've heard a climber injured his finger, he had no water that day.  This might be coincidental, but better take another gulp just in case. According to experts, you should have drank about 20 oz of water 2 hours before exercise, 10 oz just before, and drink about 8 oz every 15 min during your activity. No need to get the measuring cup, just make sure that you keep taking a drink of water about every 20 min while bouldering. It helps a lot. 
                                                soda or water before climbing, do the right thing!


#3. The NIGHT BEFORE :  Just a quick note of something else that helps. If you're sending that big project on a Monday, chances are Sunday's decisions could be influential. So make good choices the night before climbing. Some important things to do would be to eat well ( no double cheese pizza topped with fried chicken, that's post send :) , don't get crunk ( instead of beer and whiskey try WATER), and  get plenty of sleep. Sometimes these little things can make a big difference. 

#4. WARM UP: This is the step that I see skipped the most. I seen many climbers warm up for their v6 project by trying v8s with cold muscles and no stretching. WTF!! When I am at my best, climbing arguable v13s. I usually warm up for an hour. I do about 4 v0 - v2s, then I do about 5 problems v3 -4. Then I'll do a v5, v6, then do moves on my hard project starting with the easiest sequence and ending on the hardest. It's a slow process but gets your mind and your body ready for the intensity you're about to put it through. So don't be afraid to warm up. Besides, it's one of my favorite parts of bouldering. It's the only time I feel like I'm easily moving on rock. It's the high point of the day usually so skipping it is not an option for me. If you don't like being hurt, I suggest you do the same. 

#5. PATIENCE:  A virtue and an asset for healthy climbing. This one just helps a little compared to the others but don't write it off. If you're climbing and the weather sucks, patience. If you're climbing and you feel tweaky or not that good, be patient. If you're grabbing spragged crimpers over and over and getting too excited to stop, calm down, breathe deep and use........patience. Remember, the little things. 

#6. REST :   This one is sort of the better half of the previous. I could have included them together but what sounds better? 7 ways to avoid injuries or 8, you get an extra for free. SO, REST. This means rest between go's , full on rest days between hard climbing days and the dreaded full on big yearly rest for up to a week or two.  Resting between goes is a great idea if you're trying to send. How long is up to you. A general rule is to rest 5 min and then one minute for every move you just did. Adjust this as you like it. There's is also the rest days. Bodybuilders recommend resting a worked muscle for 2 to 3 days between breaking it down. Climbers, having little patience (see rule #5), may have to tweak this ( and maybe tweak something else). Then, of course it is recommended that once or twice a year boulderers take off for about 2 weeks to let your entire package recover. I just did this step after my road trip. It was fun, I got to pretend I was a normal person who just watches TV, works, and doesn't do shit with their lives. It was awesome but sure glad that's over. Climbing becomes double exciting after one of these. So remember, REST, it's not just for pussies, it's for hard asses that think being hurt can suck it!
                                          during the big rest, don't be afraid to regularly pass out into mid day


#7. AWARENESS OF THE TWEAK FACTOR:  Ok, here's a stretch but another tip none the less. Once in a while we end up trying a boulder or exercise that has a tweak factor, i.e., inverted sprag underclings to offset gaston rose move in a full on Egyptian-bout-to-tear-my-ACL- drop knee. Problems with weird holds, shoulder moves, and screwed up drop knees should be handled with extra care. You don't have to avoid them, but be aware that they are extra risky. Listen to your body when on these climbs and know to walk away before it's too late. Keeping your sessions short on tweaky shit is a good idea. 

#8. THERABAND:  This is the last piece of advice I got. Much of my tendinitis and rotator cuff problems went away with the use of this simple tool and other resistance exercise. It's a basic concept, take a muscle that you use in climbing a lot and work out the opposing muscle. For example, push ups and triceps will keep your biceps healthy, theraband resistance will keep the shoulders good, ab work outs help out the lower back and so on. There are many exercises that help keep your climbing parts strong and injury free.  You can  check youtube for instructional videos on different resistance exercises. There are lots and lots. Just type " theraband " in the youtube search engine. I must say that this one tool has helped a lot with my rotator cuff issues and has a been a personal lifesaver. You should do these exercises about 3 -4 days a week for about 15 - 30 minutes. Doing them as a warm up before climbing is also a good idea. 

Well, it took me many years to get this list of rules in my head. After the 30th time in a row I got injured climbing, I decided to come up with a protocol that helps decrease this dilemma. And, while anyone can get injured at anytime, following these methods will help keep the odds in your favor. I hope this post helps shorten the learning curve. So, get out there, be smart and climb safe. 

Saturday, March 29, 2014

Putting in the Time

   After Hueco, I headed to Saint George, Utah. One of my favorite spots to hang out, camp, and go climbing. While there I learned a lot about process and product. Most of the time that I get excited about a rock climb, I have to work it for a while. I was in Utah about 2 months. The first 5 weeks I was just getting spanked. I picked a pool of problems to send that all felt equally impossible at first. This list included  the Sentinel Project in the front of the area that had still apparently not seen a first ascent. I had been trying this problem the past 3 seasons prior. In those first weeks, I kept in my same theme from Hueco. I just kept trying as many problems as I could often alternating days between each.
   Slowly I started to hone in on this one roof that Isaac showed me last season called Meatbag. After shuffling through all the problems I kept coming back to this one more and more. I liked it. It was friendly on the skin, in the shade all day, no one was ever trying it, and it seemed like it fit me fairly well. There was this move to the lip that stood out as a real mofo. All the other moves felt manageable except this one. I began to think that this throw was impossible. Everything seemed like it was facing the wrong way, the feet, the hands. This move had lots of resistance. One try, out of nowhere I stuck the move and finished the problem. From then on I was sucked in. I began going up there every other day. Every try was from the bottom. My favorite routine on repeat. Wake up, warm up, hike to Meatbag, try, fail, rest and repeat. I would do this from 11 am til dark every other day for about 2 weeks.  After doing this schedule for a bit, I decided to take 3 rest days. Afterwards, I went back alone. I felt light, full of energy and hungry. Something clicked differently that day and stayed with me the remainder of the trip. It was the feeling of control and acceptance in my climbing. I felt excited to try, excited to see what happens next, and knew what I could do. It had been a while since I felt that. Anyone who's hit a heavy momentum in life knows what I'm talking about. I was there again. I hadn't been there in years and it was nice to be back. Not happy because I was climbing hard grades. Happy because I could  accept where I was. Being satisfied with a mindset is better than being psyched on results. Mindset is solid through success and failure. A constant. It is more fun to try hard when you feel in shape. Nothing is as cool as feeling this light. Maybe not even sending.
    What happened after that feeling hit me was awesome.  The last few weeks, I relaxed, stayed disciplined and my projects fell like dominoes. Each and every one came with an amazing feeling. I had put in the time, the work, endured frustration, and had embarrassing wobblers.  The effort you pour into these things is harsh but fully worth it.  My road trip is over. Now back home and ready to begin my temporary life again, I've never felt so glad to be a boulderer. I feel so light. I hope I stay this way forever.


Tuesday, March 25, 2014

Hueco Tanks: get up get down

   I saved all these blog posts thingies for after my trip this time. I wanted more time to think about how to transfer my experience into words. Some things seem more clear in retrospect. I showed up in the Tanks this year in early December. My main goal as usual was the Martini Right. The  ultimate endurance nemesis for me. In the beginning of my stay there I took the advice of my good friend Kiel. He suggested that I do something different than I usually do. Usually I just go to Hueco and camp out on the Martini and just assault it until I leave successful or not. He suggested that this time I leave that one on the back burner for a bit and try other things that might interest me. I decided to take his advice. I figured, this way if I don't send the Martini at least I will have tried some other rock climbs that are cool. Kiel recommended two lines that he was sure I'd like.
     I heard some rumors about the history of these lines. They seem complete with allure, difficulty, and an underground feeling that I really liked. The Rhino was the first of these. This one was put up about 7 years prior by Chris Schulte. For years after the FA it sat unrepeated. It seemed as though most people, me included, didn't know what this cool prow was behind the famous slab Hersey's Symphony. About 5 or 6 years after the FA, it finally saw a repeat by Tim Doyle. He confirmed that this line was hard and of course, rad. Now we're at 2014 and a good friend and I were going for the 3rd ascent. It was great working on this line. It fit me really well in both body and style. I had no excuses this time yet it was still really damn hard. We kept at it for days and days and eventually my friend got the 3rd ascent. I was inspired to see that his hard work and determination pushed him through to the summit. It gave me hope and made me realize that I just have to keep falling with a straight face. Then you get up, dust yourself off, and give it another, and REPEAT. This is projecting at it's finest. One day I was there and it wasn't going particularly good that day. I wasn't even hitting the individual moves that consistently. I decided I wanted some real burns from the bottom. A few flails later, I started going and didn't stop. I did something on the send I hadn't done in a while, I screamed and yelled. I wanted it. I wasn't bored. I was excited and confident, and it worked. It was really exciting to do a hard climb like this. I loved it. Good eye by Chris to see how cool this thing was. The Rhino became my first hard climb of the year.
        The next line Kiel told me about was a James Webb line called Pull the Plug. Anyone who's been to the Ghetto Simulator has likely walked right by this thing and wondered what it was. This line has an odd dilemma. All that separates the boulderer from getting to a v8 starting feature is about 2 feet. Somehow the 2 feet seems like a mile. Bad start holds and all around funkiness made this line an ass kicker. This one had allure as well. It had seen only 2 ascents in 3 years or so. The first few days left me baffled. I've never dry fired so many times in a row off of slopers. The beta the other ascentists used wasn't working for me at all. I had a strange theory about how a short person like me would do this thing. It involved high feet and a move that tested the durability of my shoulder muscles. The move was so shouldery that I was actually scared to try the beta. On day three out of nowhere this beta worked like a charm and got me to the top. Again, I was so psyched to be the 3rd person to complete this one. I was feeling pretty good about the trip.
      At this point, I was about 3 weeks into this Hueco trip and realized that I hadn't even been to the Martini cave once. Of course, I was feeling confident and spiffy. I started to go in there and get to work. First try I pulled from the start and went all the way to my high point right away. The problem was exactly how I left it and so was I. I worked it a bit over the next few weeks. I felt better on it than ever before too. A milestone for me was this particular try where I was able to link the big reachy move to the hueco from the undercling start. This was the first time I had linked that many moves into the crux. I knew then that I was in better shape for this thing than ever. However, as confident a climber as I am, I'm not too delusional. I can recognize what it takes as well as what I have to offer. It felt so good to feel that I was better and closer but, with all my experience and intuition I also knew that this wasn't the year for me to do this thing. At the same time, I realized that this was ok. We do what we can. The joy of bouldering and projecting has to be in the process. The product and fulfillment of sending is a great feeling and, in its deepest roots, stays with you forever. But, ultimately I have to find happiness in the process. I think this is why there is always a lingering feeling of closure after you finally take down your nemesis. In that sense, I was pleased at what I was able to accomplish. Progress is progress. In the end you have to be proud of the fact that you got your ass kicked with a smile on your face. This was a good way to move on from Hueco. I was beginning to feel the need to move on to a different place, with different projects. From there I decided to head for one of my favorite places to hang out. Cool locals, fun rock climbs, beautiful scenery, nice weather and best of all freedom to roam.  It was January 20th. Hueco was hotter, a little more crowded and getting a bit windy. I packed my shit, cranked the S 10, turned on the iPod. Saint George here I come.......

Friday, March 21, 2014

Better Late Than Never

It has been a good while since my last blog post. To be honest a lot happened between Tennessee and now. There was many highs and lows throughout my westbound adventure. I thought about how to present all this in a single post. What I decided was for now to do a throwback action on the blog while I come up with a way to write these up.
   Back in summer of 2012 I went on a solo trip to the Rocklands, South Africa. My main goal was to take down my nemesis,  Steakhouse. In the midst of it of found myself getting other projects along the way. The trip was long, about 100 days, and I met many great people along the way. I took lots of footage when I was there and have been sitting on it for quite a while. Well, I finally got around to doing a little edit of the trip. I'm presenting it on the blog while I write up the next few posts to catalog the events of my trip. SO for now, enjoy this video of South Africa. There will be more videos and posts coming soon about my more recent trips but for now a THROWBACK!!! Summer is around the corner so hopefully this gets people psyched for their Rocklands trip!!

Monday, December 9, 2013

Roadtrip, project # 1 goes down

First of the three projects for this years road trip complete. Here is video of the Crazy Craver in Dayton Pocket, Tennessee. An epic climb for me personally. I put a lot of effort into this thing. Did not get a lot of footage but here is the send. Next stop....Hueco.

Thursday, October 24, 2013

Tahoe Summer Videos

Before I take off for the road here are a couple of videos I edited quick. They have some good sends from this summer and fall. Special thanks to Charlie Barrett, Flannery Shay Niemrow, Kiel Mahar, Eric Sanchez, and Brad Perry. Enjoy.