Saturday, March 29, 2014

Putting in the Time

   After Hueco, I headed to Saint George, Utah. One of my favorite spots to hang out, camp, and go climbing. While there I learned a lot about process and product. Most of the time that I get excited about a rock climb, I have to work it for a while. I was in Utah about 2 months. The first 5 weeks I was just getting spanked. I picked a pool of problems to send that all felt equally impossible at first. This list included  the Sentinel Project in the front of the area that had still apparently not seen a first ascent. I had been trying this problem the past 3 seasons prior. In those first weeks, I kept in my same theme from Hueco. I just kept trying as many problems as I could often alternating days between each.
   Slowly I started to hone in on this one roof that Isaac showed me last season called Meatbag. After shuffling through all the problems I kept coming back to this one more and more. I liked it. It was friendly on the skin, in the shade all day, no one was ever trying it, and it seemed like it fit me fairly well. There was this move to the lip that stood out as a real mofo. All the other moves felt manageable except this one. I began to think that this throw was impossible. Everything seemed like it was facing the wrong way, the feet, the hands. This move had lots of resistance. One try, out of nowhere I stuck the move and finished the problem. From then on I was sucked in. I began going up there every other day. Every try was from the bottom. My favorite routine on repeat. Wake up, warm up, hike to Meatbag, try, fail, rest and repeat. I would do this from 11 am til dark every other day for about 2 weeks.  After doing this schedule for a bit, I decided to take 3 rest days. Afterwards, I went back alone. I felt light, full of energy and hungry. Something clicked differently that day and stayed with me the remainder of the trip. It was the feeling of control and acceptance in my climbing. I felt excited to try, excited to see what happens next, and knew what I could do. It had been a while since I felt that. Anyone who's hit a heavy momentum in life knows what I'm talking about. I was there again. I hadn't been there in years and it was nice to be back. Not happy because I was climbing hard grades. Happy because I could  accept where I was. Being satisfied with a mindset is better than being psyched on results. Mindset is solid through success and failure. A constant. It is more fun to try hard when you feel in shape. Nothing is as cool as feeling this light. Maybe not even sending.
    What happened after that feeling hit me was awesome.  The last few weeks, I relaxed, stayed disciplined and my projects fell like dominoes. Each and every one came with an amazing feeling. I had put in the time, the work, endured frustration, and had embarrassing wobblers.  The effort you pour into these things is harsh but fully worth it.  My road trip is over. Now back home and ready to begin my temporary life again, I've never felt so glad to be a boulderer. I feel so light. I hope I stay this way forever.


Tuesday, March 25, 2014

Hueco Tanks: get up get down

   I saved all these blog posts thingies for after my trip this time. I wanted more time to think about how to transfer my experience into words. Some things seem more clear in retrospect. I showed up in the Tanks this year in early December. My main goal as usual was the Martini Right. The  ultimate endurance nemesis for me. In the beginning of my stay there I took the advice of my good friend Kiel. He suggested that I do something different than I usually do. Usually I just go to Hueco and camp out on the Martini and just assault it until I leave successful or not. He suggested that this time I leave that one on the back burner for a bit and try other things that might interest me. I decided to take his advice. I figured, this way if I don't send the Martini at least I will have tried some other rock climbs that are cool. Kiel recommended two lines that he was sure I'd like.
     I heard some rumors about the history of these lines. They seem complete with allure, difficulty, and an underground feeling that I really liked. The Rhino was the first of these. This one was put up about 7 years prior by Chris Schulte. For years after the FA it sat unrepeated. It seemed as though most people, me included, didn't know what this cool prow was behind the famous slab Hersey's Symphony. About 5 or 6 years after the FA, it finally saw a repeat by Tim Doyle. He confirmed that this line was hard and of course, rad. Now we're at 2014 and a good friend and I were going for the 3rd ascent. It was great working on this line. It fit me really well in both body and style. I had no excuses this time yet it was still really damn hard. We kept at it for days and days and eventually my friend got the 3rd ascent. I was inspired to see that his hard work and determination pushed him through to the summit. It gave me hope and made me realize that I just have to keep falling with a straight face. Then you get up, dust yourself off, and give it another, and REPEAT. This is projecting at it's finest. One day I was there and it wasn't going particularly good that day. I wasn't even hitting the individual moves that consistently. I decided I wanted some real burns from the bottom. A few flails later, I started going and didn't stop. I did something on the send I hadn't done in a while, I screamed and yelled. I wanted it. I wasn't bored. I was excited and confident, and it worked. It was really exciting to do a hard climb like this. I loved it. Good eye by Chris to see how cool this thing was. The Rhino became my first hard climb of the year.
        The next line Kiel told me about was a James Webb line called Pull the Plug. Anyone who's been to the Ghetto Simulator has likely walked right by this thing and wondered what it was. This line has an odd dilemma. All that separates the boulderer from getting to a v8 starting feature is about 2 feet. Somehow the 2 feet seems like a mile. Bad start holds and all around funkiness made this line an ass kicker. This one had allure as well. It had seen only 2 ascents in 3 years or so. The first few days left me baffled. I've never dry fired so many times in a row off of slopers. The beta the other ascentists used wasn't working for me at all. I had a strange theory about how a short person like me would do this thing. It involved high feet and a move that tested the durability of my shoulder muscles. The move was so shouldery that I was actually scared to try the beta. On day three out of nowhere this beta worked like a charm and got me to the top. Again, I was so psyched to be the 3rd person to complete this one. I was feeling pretty good about the trip.
      At this point, I was about 3 weeks into this Hueco trip and realized that I hadn't even been to the Martini cave once. Of course, I was feeling confident and spiffy. I started to go in there and get to work. First try I pulled from the start and went all the way to my high point right away. The problem was exactly how I left it and so was I. I worked it a bit over the next few weeks. I felt better on it than ever before too. A milestone for me was this particular try where I was able to link the big reachy move to the hueco from the undercling start. This was the first time I had linked that many moves into the crux. I knew then that I was in better shape for this thing than ever. However, as confident a climber as I am, I'm not too delusional. I can recognize what it takes as well as what I have to offer. It felt so good to feel that I was better and closer but, with all my experience and intuition I also knew that this wasn't the year for me to do this thing. At the same time, I realized that this was ok. We do what we can. The joy of bouldering and projecting has to be in the process. The product and fulfillment of sending is a great feeling and, in its deepest roots, stays with you forever. But, ultimately I have to find happiness in the process. I think this is why there is always a lingering feeling of closure after you finally take down your nemesis. In that sense, I was pleased at what I was able to accomplish. Progress is progress. In the end you have to be proud of the fact that you got your ass kicked with a smile on your face. This was a good way to move on from Hueco. I was beginning to feel the need to move on to a different place, with different projects. From there I decided to head for one of my favorite places to hang out. Cool locals, fun rock climbs, beautiful scenery, nice weather and best of all freedom to roam.  It was January 20th. Hueco was hotter, a little more crowded and getting a bit windy. I packed my shit, cranked the S 10, turned on the iPod. Saint George here I come.......

Friday, March 21, 2014

Better Late Than Never

It has been a good while since my last blog post. To be honest a lot happened between Tennessee and now. There was many highs and lows throughout my westbound adventure. I thought about how to present all this in a single post. What I decided was for now to do a throwback action on the blog while I come up with a way to write these up.
   Back in summer of 2012 I went on a solo trip to the Rocklands, South Africa. My main goal was to take down my nemesis,  Steakhouse. In the midst of it of found myself getting other projects along the way. The trip was long, about 100 days, and I met many great people along the way. I took lots of footage when I was there and have been sitting on it for quite a while. Well, I finally got around to doing a little edit of the trip. I'm presenting it on the blog while I write up the next few posts to catalog the events of my trip. SO for now, enjoy this video of South Africa. There will be more videos and posts coming soon about my more recent trips but for now a THROWBACK!!! Summer is around the corner so hopefully this gets people psyched for their Rocklands trip!!

Monday, December 9, 2013

Roadtrip, project # 1 goes down

First of the three projects for this years road trip complete. Here is video of the Crazy Craver in Dayton Pocket, Tennessee. An epic climb for me personally. I put a lot of effort into this thing. Did not get a lot of footage but here is the send. Next stop....Hueco.

Thursday, October 24, 2013

Tahoe Summer Videos

Before I take off for the road here are a couple of videos I edited quick. They have some good sends from this summer and fall. Special thanks to Charlie Barrett, Flannery Shay Niemrow, Kiel Mahar, Eric Sanchez, and Brad Perry. Enjoy.

Saturday, October 19, 2013

Motivation and Training


                                        My home training center.....all two rungs


   Getting ready for a road trip can be tough. I go on trips usually with a few goals in mind. In the months that precede I try to prepare as best I can for hard climbing. The problem with training is that it's hard to stay motivated. After I get out of an 8 hour day of work, I usually get home and want to just sit on the couch and relax. The temptation sounds pretty good even to an climbing junkee like me. But, I've been powering through the distractions all summer, and despite a few tweaks, it's kept me on a good track.
   The training circuit I've been on seems like it has worked pretty well for me. I've been doing basically 6 days of training per week. Each training session lasts from 45 minutes to 2 hours. Each session has no stopping points. Everyday I hit a different muscle groups. Most of the exercises are pretty basic. Push ups pull ups, hang boarding, L sits, and lots of rotator cuff routines. I believe that training for climbing comes down to just getting your overall fitness up, strengthening muscles to avoid injury, and keeping up your climbing technique by spending lots of time on the rock.
   One of the hardest parts of training is motivation. The biggest question I get is how do I stay psyched to train 6 days a week on top of working and doing all of life's errands. I'm usually training with a goal in mind. In this particular case right now, I'm going on a trip across the U.S. to do 3 boulder problems that have been challenging for me for multiple seasons. I put a lot of time into these lines yet sending has eluded me for quite a while now. When you fall on projects time and time and time again, you eventually get frustrated. In the midst of this frustration I have this feeling come over me that perhaps I didn't prepare enough to have the skills to complete the climb. It is a stale pain like regret. Knowing that you could have done more to get ready, but that now that you're here at the climb, it's too late. Climbing is climbing and nothing more. It's not that important or even exciting in the big picture. But in the life on an obsessed boulderer, that moment of sending is everything. When I realize that I spent money and time getting to the project and came ill prepared to send, well...it sucks. THAT is the moment that gets me off the couch. That's what I think about every time I do a pull up and grit my teeth. That moment when you were there and not ready to send. I then realize that this is my chance to make up for it right now. In training, you get out of it what you put into it. Every push up I do, endurance lap, and campus move I think about that moment at my project when I wish I could have done more to get ready. That's how I keep my motivation. I think about the goals. No matter how tired I am, or sore or unmotivated, I just imagine what it might feel like to sit down under one of those projects, look up and know that your gonna get the bastard this time. These are the thoughts that get me through training.
I've been living in this mindset for a few months now. Keeping my eye on the ball at all times. And the training has paid off well. The other day after a few days of rest, I went to Truckee to check out the famous Charlie Barrett test piece Boyz in the Hood v12. This is the first hard climb I've tried in a while. The problem fit me very well. This combined with the training from the previous months made me feel ready. Somehow, and by the skin of my teeth, I managed to send this rig in a day. It was the classic case of last try best try. All I can say is what a great line.I felt like I was using this problem as a test for how ready I will be for my far away projects. I still have about 6 weeks of preparation left so there's room for improvement. At this point, I'm psyched that despite working and hot temps I pushed through into my training season. Feeling the progression is a great way to gain momentum. Ultimately, thinking about what I wish to accomplish this season is driving me towards better climbing. Even if I don't send any of them, it is good to be driven, and continue to push forward
into a better....whatever.

Monday, September 30, 2013

Where did Summer Go?

 Summer in Tahoe really went by in a flash this year. It seems like you blink and it's over. The bouldering developement on our end of South Lake Tahoe was active as always. Many groups went out and did new things everywhere. I spent most of my summer in the apartment, training my way through the heat wave. I did, however, manage to get out and do a few things this season worth mentioning. Anyone who's local knows the awesome roadside zone called Christmas Valley. Home to the Grinch Boulder, Tall Boy, Bad Larry and a host of great easy problems, this area had a 13 year standing project. Known as the Lean To Roof project, this tiny little problem packed a punch. Though not very tall, the climb had a rad rail feature arcing through this mini wave overhang. The crux came down to a blind throw off a heinous crimp to a sloper. The blind move took me a lot of tries. Felt like it was all about luck. But after some sessions on it the project finally went down on the Lean To. I named the new line Short Story v11. I believe this new problem, along with Lump of Coal v9 are the 2 hardest ticks in this zone. This line has a very crazy style to it, I was psyched to add this one.
   Now it seems as though the heat wave is done. It's Fall again, my absolute favorite of seasons. Changing colors, cooler weather, and blah blah blah it's frickin' sweet. I'm psyched to get out here and there on the good days and try the hard ones I've been saving myself all year for. In the meantime, I've been more busy then ever between bouldering, working, training and trying to get my shit together for a another roadtrip through the USA winter destinations. This season I'm trying to clean house and take down the three lines that have eluded me over the past few seasons. Still have lots to do before I leave so I don't want to get too excited yet. For now, the busy life continues. More work, more training, and very little play time for now.

                                           Kenyon Smith on Dangerously Cheesy v7, crater lake
                                        Me on Zun Zun v7, Woods Lake