Friday, July 31, 2009

Freak Show

Today I put up a new hard line at the Freaks. The Freaks is an area near Erratica with good steep, volcanic rock. Many good lines have already been done by Frank Lucido, Noah Kaufman, and Jay Sell. Some of the classic problems include Twizzler v8, Wake and Bake v2, and Smoke and a Pancake v6. Among these lines the newest boulder is a 20ft horizontal roof on excellent quality volcanic rock which is abundantly featured. This roof is called the Basement. I did a great line going right through the middle of the roof on good holds really far apart. I called the line Freak Show v11. Very hard I thought. It will have a lower start that will likely add a couple of hard moves. There is also another project starting this line or lower that will go rightward through intense shouldery moves. It will be cool to see what else will come from this unique area. Usually volcanic is rather chossy but this place is an exception. I'd recommend a visit, though it is still semi-secret so good luck on finding an open door. Tahoe feels like it is cooling off a little for the weekend so I'm excited to see some more good climbing.

F.A. of Freak Show v11

Monday, July 27, 2009

Can't Beat the Heat

Here in Tahoe it has been very hot. Not compared to the areas in the valley but pretty hot for us locals. However, developement is still going on at a crazy pace as new areas keep being found and the list of projects waiting to go keeps getting longer. The Burnside area is very concentrated with good rock and problems of all grades. A new area very close to Erratica has been found with good volcanic rock and steep problems, one of which is a 20 ft horizontal roof called the Basement. Recently I also went back to one of my biggest aspirations, the angora project, this 40 ft steep highball over deep water is one of the best climbs on a hot day. The project is a 10 move undercling traverse to a steep prow with thrutchy moves that lead to a big dyno to a rail , followed by a hard top out into a sparsely featured slab. When this goes it will be one of tahoe's hardest and most unique lines around. It is so hard to concentrate on one thing though when there's so much new stuff being found constantly.

the angora project

Thursday, July 9, 2009

Return from the Dark Continent

Good times with my peeps
Me, Ian and Simon chasing each other on Up the Spout v4

Fragile Steps v13

My new favorite problem in the world The Amphitheatre v12

I just got back from the Rocklands in South Africa. What an amazing place. So much good rock everywhere.. There's too much to tell. The water tastes like dirt, our rental car was a piece of shit, food and wine is very cheap, and people drive like they're on speed. It was awesome. I met a lot of really cool people that I will never forget. We pretty much climbed all day and got drunk all night. Such a fun routine. My 5 and half weeks there flew by in a flash. It rained more than I thought it would and my last week there I sprained my ankle really bad falling from the top of The Hatchling. I could not walk for like 2 days and it swelled up like a baloon. It was totally worth it though. What an amazing problem. I almost sent which is rad b/c it will be first on the list when I go back. I did do a lot of problems before that though. All of which were amazingly good. Here's my ticklist from the trip.
Girl On My Mind v5 ( incredibly fun)
Poison Dwarf v7
I'm Julie v7 (flash)
John Denver v7 (flash)
Secret To Olive's Preserve Cupboard v7 (2nd try)
Minkie v8 ( 2nd try)
Petite Hueco v8 (flash)
Maniac v8 (flash)
Dirty Lies v8 (2nd try)
Sunset Arete v9 ( 4th try)
Last Day in Paradise v10 ( 4th try)
No Late Tenders v10 ( 2nd try)
Shadows of Ourselves v10
Stargate v10
Caroline v10
Nutsa v12 ( 4th try)
The Amphitheatre v12
Fragile Steps v13 ( my first 8b; so psyched)

These were all the best lines that I did. I left a lot of lines behind but that's good b/c it left me itching to go back. I was very psyched to do my first v13. It was epic but fit my body and climbing style really well. Nice one Daniel; such rad holds. Other than the climbing it was cool to make so many new awesome friends and experience a new country that is very different from the US. I loved South Africa but it did make me realize how good we have it here in the states. I think though that I am now hooked on road tripping globally. I'm already making plans for another trip in Spring. Probably Europe most likely. Now I'm psyched to be home, heal my ankle, make a little money, and see some of the great new stuff that Noah and Frank are developing in the Burnside Lake area. Also I'm psyched to check out Way Lake again in Mammoth and get back on Chumscrubber. I'm glad that Nick and Jeff got the 2nd and 3rd ascent cause now all the pressure will be off. haaha I can just take my time and try to send.
Lastly I'd like to give a shout out to all my new friends and housemates: The Germans: Tom, Stephan and Axel keep on rocking. John and Amy you guys are awesome. The Housemates: Colin, Andy, Jarrad, Petra, Jesse Brown, Simon, Walker, Kevin, Yen, Iyunde, Ian, Ryan, and Eric. You guys kick ass, you are all great climber and great people. It was a pleasure hanging with you guys for 5 weeks and I look forward to see you all again at random somewhere by a bunch of rocks.